Iâ€™m happy with this sketch but not really very excited by how the colours ended up. Might have to take another crack at it sometime.
Bonus: hereâ€™s how things looked while masked up.
Well, when in doubt for what to draw, turn to PokÃ©mon. But which PokÃ©mon?
Well, I remembered when the PokÃ©fusion site was going around again a while ago and everyone was posting the fusion that they would get from first random loading.
Well, I back then, I loaded up the site to find my assigned PokÃ©fusion and get….
So when I was stuck for what to draw today, Shellder seemed as good a choice as any. This little guy is actually a bit tricky to draw in ways I hadn’t expected, but lookit it, so cute!
I drew the cute new Dragon PokÃ©mon that was teased today. Drawn in FireAlpaca. Need to work on getting my line-weights consistent.
Today’s second post is a painting of the starting PokÃ©mon from Sun/Moon’s new Alola Region. I painted this one shortly after the starters were announced.
Okay I had a nice weekend sans-Blaugust posts, and I’m still undecided about whether I’ll be making catchup posts.
In the meantime, I better get back to posting before I lose all motivation! I mentioned last week that I opened an Etsy store. Well one of the fun parts of having an Etsy store is sending out letters. Scribbling a thing on each letter I’ve sent out has been a good little exercise. However I’ve found it pretty nerve-wracking as I haven’t planned the drawings at all.
For first envelope, I decided to utilise the top right area for Zapdos’ head. Then I realised that’s where the stamps needed to go. So I rewrote the address upside down and put the stamps in the new “top right” of the envelope.
Lesson learned. I avoided that mistake with the following envelopes.
For the legendary trio I ried for a cute little design, I don’t think the brush pen was the best choice to convey such small little figures.
I drew this Moltres envelope while waiting for lunch. The biro was much less scary to work with. I don’t normally do shading/hatching like this but I think it worked out okay.
I’ve made a few badges from PokÃ©mon before. My Hoenn badges were 3D printed on Shapeways out of full-colour sandstone.
My Unova badges were also printed on Shapeways, but that was only the bases. The colouring and finishing touches were done by hand. I used acrylic and watercolour paints as well as liquid sculpey to create the glassy look in those badges.
Now that I have a laser cutter I can make the flat badges (Johto, Sinnoh and Unova) from laser-etched wood. I paint them and fill them with a gloss varnish to create the glossy effect. The watercolour paint bleeds into the varnish slightly, which can add to that enameled look in some cases and can be a hindrance in others. In addition to the paints bleeding, I also found that the burnt wood residues seep colour into the varnish! Compare the top set of badges with the set below. The varnish has done an excellent job of deepening the colours and making them stand out… but you can also see a yellowing that comes from the MDF. It’s most noticable in the Zephyr badge but the blue badges also suffer pretty badly.
I’ll be working to fix these issues but I think that overall these badges are working out nicely. One day I’ll finish the 3D models I’ve made of the Kalos badges…
P.S. you’ve probably noticed that I’ve been playing around with the look of the Hive badge. While the rest of the Johto badges had that uniform look, Bugsy for some reason decided to have a black-rimmed badge. Perhaps in a limited palette the concept of the ladybird didn’t translate well with a silver rim. Regardless, I decided I’d have no such inconsistency in my set. The Rising badge gets a little bit of red in its borders but I guess that’s the privileges you get when you train dragons. No way am I letting a kid bug trainer get away with nonsense like a differently coloured badge!
Remember those awesome dinosaur model kits from when you were a kid? I’m working on a
Viridian Pewter City Museum collection – PokÃ©mon model dinosaur kits! This is the first, Aerodactyl.
I model the design in Blender first.
After making the 3D model out of flat planes, I mark out areas where the parts intersect. The model is then exported into a 2D file, using this excellent Paper Model Export script which allows me to set the scale of the complete model. After export, a number of things must be done to make each piece ready for cutting. The tail piece is shown as an example below.
Each point of interconnect initially gets exported as a normal “cut” line. This must be expanded into a 3mm wide line, and then the length of the line must be extended past the outline of the piece. Then the width of these lines is removed from the area of the piece.
Each piece is laser cut and the whole model can be assembled by slotting the correct parts together!
I need to make a lot of fixes to the design still but the overall concept works. Unfortunately the other Kanto fossils don’t really suit being made into model kits, but there are some good candidates throughout the series!