While I was at AVCon an attendee saw my Portal Earrings and Brooches and asked if I could make some cufflinks. Since cufflink designs need to be a lot smaller I opted to create them out of wood instead of trying to fit the tiny cut acrylic pieces together.
Today’s sketches cover some birdy ideas for designs that could be turned into brooches or pendants, similarly to how I painted the Callie and Marie charms. Most of these were painted with a brush pen without any pencil sketch underneath – considering that I’m pretty pleased with a couple of them.
I’m playing around with a few birds and animals, I should probably pick a design to finalise before moving onto the next animal but if you have a creature that you’d like me to sketch up let me know and I’ll see what I come up with.
I have had an image stuck in my head for the last couple of days. It’s a lotus flower.
It’s elegant, it’s geometric. It’ll look best in watercolour, I think.
It uses a series of triangles – they repeat along the shape of the petals in a regular fashion, each triangle equally sized as opposed to being a planar construction across the surfaces of the flower.
I have so far completely failed to get this concept to work. I see flashes of it in my mind, but I think perhaps it’s something that cannot physically be manifested. A shame.
Here’s one of my attempts to squeeze the idea into being.
We recently acquired a set of Sushi Go. It’s an excellent game that caught my eye when I was on a print-and-play kick. It appeared in many PnP lists due to a trial version of the cards being made available while they were trying to raise funding for the game.
One difference between the PnP game and published one is a lack of scoring mechanism included with the game. The PnP game tried to use a pair of cards to represent the player’s food tray moving along the score track. I understand why it wasn’t included in the final game – it was a somewhat clunky way to keep track of points. But Sushi Go is a game that needs to have points kept track of between rounds, so I decided to make scorecards so that we don’t always have to scramble for pen and paper whenever we play a game!
These are inspired by a similar set of score cards that I saw on Board Game Geek. The art is grabbed from this player aid card. The important part is the scoring wheels that can be rotated to reflect the player’s current score. The rules and scoring details are all just window dressing really.
If you would like to make your own, you can download my file here.
Print out two copies of the first page and one copy of the second page onto stiffish paper.
Cut the scoring wheel page between the second and third row of circles. Fold the paper along the lines and glue together to create the double-sided scoring wheels.
The paper folds into a sturdy card once folded over itself. I used watercolour paper so I didn’t even need to glue them. If you’re using lighter paper you may want to apply glue across all faces (watch out for the ‘glue-free zones’, my nod to the Midnight Quiz) so that everything holds together.
You can get small split pins (brads) from the scrapbooking section of an art supplies store.
Okay, I think I’m now up to date for Blaugust! Just need to work out what I’ll be posting about tomorrow…
I have had this design complete for… *checks files* FOUR YEARS and somehow I never uploaded it online in any form.
I’ve played with it for a couple of product ideas, first as printed posters on yellow paper and then I toyed with making it as a shirt design.
I think these coasters are the perfect incarnation however. The black design on the yellow acrylic really evokes a street sign feel.
I make these by etching the design on my laser engraving machine. I leave the paper on the acrylic while the design is etched. After the etching is complete, I use black acrylic paint to fill in the etched areas, then lift the paper masking.
I’ve made a few badges from Pokémon before. My Hoenn badges were 3D printed on Shapeways out of full-colour sandstone.
My Unova badges were also printed on Shapeways, but that was only the bases. The colouring and finishing touches were done by hand. I used acrylic and watercolour paints as well as liquid sculpey to create the glassy look in those badges.
Now that I have a laser cutter I can make the flat badges (Johto, Sinnoh and Unova) from laser-etched wood. I paint them and fill them with a gloss varnish to create the glossy effect. The watercolour paint bleeds into the varnish slightly, which can add to that enameled look in some cases and can be a hindrance in others. In addition to the paints bleeding, I also found that the burnt wood residues seep colour into the varnish! Compare the top set of badges with the set below. The varnish has done an excellent job of deepening the colours and making them stand out… but you can also see a yellowing that comes from the MDF. It’s most noticable in the Zephyr badge but the blue badges also suffer pretty badly.
I’ll be working to fix these issues but I think that overall these badges are working out nicely. One day I’ll finish the 3D models I’ve made of the Kalos badges…
P.S. you’ve probably noticed that I’ve been playing around with the look of the Hive badge. While the rest of the Johto badges had that uniform look, Bugsy for some reason decided to have a black-rimmed badge. Perhaps in a limited palette the concept of the ladybird didn’t translate well with a silver rim. Regardless, I decided I’d have no such inconsistency in my set. The Rising badge gets a little bit of red in its borders but I guess that’s the privileges you get when you train dragons. No way am I letting a kid bug trainer get away with nonsense like a differently coloured badge!
Remember those awesome dinosaur model kits from when you were a kid? I’m working on a
Viridian Pewter City Museum collection – Pokémon model dinosaur kits! This is the first, Aerodactyl.
I model the design in Blender first.
After making the 3D model out of flat planes, I mark out areas where the parts intersect. The model is then exported into a 2D file, using this excellent Paper Model Export script which allows me to set the scale of the complete model. After export, a number of things must be done to make each piece ready for cutting. The tail piece is shown as an example below.
Each point of interconnect initially gets exported as a normal “cut” line. This must be expanded into a 3mm wide line, and then the length of the line must be extended past the outline of the piece. Then the width of these lines is removed from the area of the piece.
Each piece is laser cut and the whole model can be assembled by slotting the correct parts together!
I need to make a lot of fixes to the design still but the overall concept works. Unfortunately the other Kanto fossils don’t really suit being made into model kits, but there are some good candidates throughout the series!
I drew these guys while attending Adelaide’s Pokémon VGC event! Sandshrew was drawn as part of a Reddit collab where each artist would draw one Pokémon. You can check out the full album of art here!
This custom Wii Remote cover features Lucina. The technique I used to paint it was the same as the Splatoon covers I shared last week. In my pictures today I show the considerations I make about the inclusion of the sloped sides of the cover. I try to keep detail out of the sides and all of the main features to the middle.
I also painted a cover featuring the Kanto Starters, but it looks like I sold it without taking a photo first! So I’m down one post for the upcoming Pokemon Week. It’ll probably be a mix of Pokemon and miscellany 🙂